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Phoenix Flying Solo

  • Columbia River Gorge

    June 3rd, 2023

    Yesterday, I woke up planning to travel to Seattle and explore the area a little bit. It’s been a good, long while since I’ve had the opportunity to really spend time in a big city, so I was looking forward to seeing what it has to offer. I got into my car, pulled up Google Maps (Yes, I still use that disaster app despite my better judgement) for directions, and at the last second saw that one of my Saved Spots was less than two hours away: The Columbia River Gorge. This one came highly recommended to me by a friend, so it was high on my list of places to visit.

    Seattle could wait.

    After my last entry where I talked about the total disaster of a trip to an unknown place that was not actually Hell’s Canyon, I am glad to say that yesterday I had a wonderful and perfectly pleasant trip through a canyon that actually lived up to its reputation.

    What I am Doing This Trip For

    One of my favorite parts of driving through mountains is the experience of turning a corner and having a wide and wonderful vista open before you. That is exactly the experience I had as I rounded a hill and saw the gorge laid out before me.

    What I saw was a wide canyon, cut by the broad Columbia River. The rocks that line its edges were mostly golden brown with some red thrown in. The edges of the valley were covered mostly in grass (you may recall from the last entry that I was a little miffed by how much of the vista of Not Hells Canyon was obscured by trees) and other small vegetation. The sun glinted perfectly off the water of the river, giving the whole area a sense of peace despite the fact that I-84 runs right through it.

    That is exactly the kind of experience I am going on this trip for.

    Of course, I was driving, and there weren’t any turnouts, so I couldn’t stop to take any photos. You’ll just have to take my word that what I saw was so moving. Thankfully, the rest of the gorge was even more beautiful, and I did get the opportunity to take pictures.

    The Visitor Center

    When I was still back at my home base figuring out where I wanted to go, I saw that the gorge is a massive place. I knew I was going to want some help figuring out what areas I should explore. Thankfully, there’s a visitor center not too far into the gorge, so I figured it would be a good place to get recommendations. I loaded it up into Google Maps, and took off.

    The center had a few exhibits about the history of the gorge. The one that really grabbed my attention detailed the legend that the local Native Americans tell to explain the formation of the gorge: there once were two brothers who constantly quarreled with each other. Eventually, their father got so fed up with them that he shot two arrows, one to the south and one to the north. He told them that each would go settle one of the areas where the arrows landed. Eventually, the brothers made up, and they created a bridge between their two homes. That peace lasted (we all know where this is going) until they let their mutual love for a beautiful woman get between them. The brothers went into an all out war with each other, and when the bridge they had built was destroyed in the fight, it fell to the earth, cutting into it and creating the Columbia River Gorge. The father got so fed up with the brothers that he turned them into Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams. As is always the case in mythology, the woman who really didn’t do anything got punished too and was turned into Mt. St. Helens. If that had happened to me, I probably would have violently exploded too.

    Anyway, check out this sick-ass Model T that’s the only thing I took a picture of!

    When I’d had my fill of the center, I stopped by the info desk and asked the clerk if she had any recommendations on where I should go. She had two in particular: Rowena Crest and Multnomah Falls. Spoiler alert: she knew what she was talking about.

    The Long and Winding Road

    The nearer stop of the two was Rowena Crest. It was close enough that I didn’t even have to go on the interstate; I could simply take the scenic highway.

    This road was filled with twists and turns and rises and falls. These roads are my favorites to drive on. I have this intense sense of focus that connects me and my car. I feel like we’re one in the same, and it’s almost as if I can feel the road beneath us.

    I was brought back to July of 2016, when my family and I met up in Breckenridge to spread my mother’s ashes. When it’s not ski season, the slopes there are set up to have a miniature theme park of sorts with rides and concessions. One of the rides was a toboggan that was set up like a one-car roller coaster. You would sit in it, and you would slide down a twisting, winding track to the bottom of the hill. Importantly, you had a stick that you can pull up and down on to control your speed.

    Stock photo of normal people enjoying a toboggan ride

    Riding on this toboggan ride is one of my favorite memories, perhaps ever. I think it is almost certainly the best of 2016. I had a blast concentrating on adjusting my speed through every twist and turn. I hardly ever feel as though my mind and my body are in sync, but during this ride, I felt as though my mind was connected to my body unlike ever before. It was a joy that I hope to experience again.

    When I got off the toboggan, I was gushing to my family about how much fun I had just had. I think some of them were a little shocked that I had enjoyed the experience so much, considering my track record with roller coasters.

    Take a wild guess which one’s me

    I discovered that it was one of those rides that takes a picture of you at the most intense moment. I was actually kind of excited to see what I looked like, knowing that what was captured was a moment of pure joy. We didn’t end up keeping it, and I don’t really remember why. I wish we had. I do, however, remember the expression I wore on my face, so I will try to recreate it here.

    Artistic representation of my face when I was feeling pure, unbridled joy

    My uncle remarked, “Are you sure you were having fun?”

    I think anyone watching me drive along one of these twisting mountain roads would probably see that same exact expression on my face. It’s an expression of intense focus, of my mind and body being completely in sync with each other and the car. So if any of you ends up driving with me on one of these roads, and I look angry and constipated, just know that I am in pure bliss.

    Rowena Crest

    When I reached the top of Rowena Crest, I finally had an opportunity to take an unobstructed picture of the gorge.

    Such a gorgeous view

    I spent quite a good long while walking around the rim of the crest, just taking in the beauty of the scenery around me. It was calm, and it was peaceful. Sometimes that’s all that really needs to be said.

    Multnomah Falls

    The next stop was Multnomah Falls. This was a good deal deeper into the gorge, so I was afforded an opportunity to see a lot more of its beauty. The rocks in the middle of the gorge are less rounded and more jagged. The gorge was narrower here too. It gave the area a shaded, secluded aura that was rather cozy-feeling.

    When I did reach the falls, I found that the parking lot was rather full, which is always a good sign. I parked, walked down the path, and saw the beautiful falls before me.

    Selfie from the very base of the falls

    I don’t remember the last time I saw a waterfall, and I’m not sure I’ve ever even seen one as tall as this. One thing that struck me is how the water forms little streams mid-air, each of which will break apart, its water droplets then merging with the droplets from other streams to form another. I don’t think I’d ever really stopped and paid attention to that before. I suppose in my head I had thought that the water falls from the rock ledge like water from a fire hose, that the water never danced like that.

    There was a path that people could follow to go further up the falls. I decided to take it to a walkway that was about a quarter of the way up. There, I was directly above a portion of the falls that hit a rock shelf before the stream carried the water the rest of the way down. It was quite a beautiful site.

    The view from the walkway

    The path continued all the way up to the top of the falls, but I felt satisfied that I had done enough for the day. I started to make my way back down towards the parking lot. Along the way, though, I began to think about how cool it would be to be at the top of a waterfall. It would be even cooler to be able to say that I hiked my way up there. When would I have the opportunity to do something like this again? I hit the bottom of the falls when I decided to turn around and go right back up.

    Getting to the Top

    The full trail was a mile long, and it was steep. Even though I have significantly improved my fitness while in Bozeman, I still had to stop and rest a few times along the way. It didn’t help that I had not planned on doing a hike, so I had left my water bottle in my car. Nevertheless, it was a beautiful hike that gave me better vantage points for both the falls and the gorge itself.

    About halfway up the falls

    Some of the other hikers were having quite a harder time than me, though. One woman asked a hiker who was coming back down how much farther it was. I didn’t hear what he had to say, but it clearly disheartened her. As I passed her I stopped and told her, “You know, my watch says that we’re about 0.6 miles into this hike. We’ve only got 0.4 miles to go.” She said thanks, and I carried on. As I walked away, she said to her partner, “You know, that was exactly the push I need, knowing we’re more than halfway there.” It feels perhaps a little self-absorbed to say, but hearing that I had helped someone find their motivation felt really nice.

    The last portion of the hike was gorgeous. It felt like I was walking along a river in a rain forest. The trees overhead blocked out the sun, and there was green every direction I looked. This part was all downhill too, so it was a nice, peaceful stroll. I eventually reached the top of the falls and felt a sense of pride. It wasn’t a big accomplishment by any means, but it still felt nice to know that I had made the decision to go the hard route, and that it had paid off.

    Me, tired, thirsty, and frankly a little afraid of heights, smiling through the pain

    I’d have to say that my first time being in Oregon was a good one.

  • Hells Canyon?

    May 18th, 2023

    I wanted the next blog post to be Bozeman Part II. I wanted to make an entry that would be a brighter, more optimistic foil to that dissertation on how miserable things were before I got to Bozeman.

    But then today happened. I have to talk about today. I can’t not talk about today. Today I went on my first adventure of this trip, and holy hell, what an adventure it was.

    Canyons

    I have a deep love for canyons.

    One of my favorite places in Colorado is Phantom Canyon. As far as I can tell, no one can agree on why it’s called that. The story that my mom told me when I was kid, and the one that makes the most amount of sense to me, is that the rock formations there look eerily like faces. Driving through, you can’t help but feel as though the rocks are watching you, as though they are phantoms trapped in that canyon, ready to strike at any time upon any living, breathing human who passes through.

    Related: horror is my favorite movie genre.

    Figure 1: An example of one of the faces of Phantom Canyon along with a very artistic outlining of exactly what I see

    In December 2020, I was in between semesters of school, and I realized that I didn’t have any obligations. I could just get up and explore some part of the country and no one would complain. I have a deep love of road trips, so the next day, I loaded up my car and prepared to go. The problem is, I was sitting in my car with all my luggage, and I didn’t know where I wanted to go. I drove around and eventually found myself at the Grand Canyon.

    Figure 2: Me, freezing and smiling through the pain

    I’m clearly drawn to canyons. I love the rock formations and all the living things, from the tiniest ladybug to the tallest pine tree. When I drive through a canyon, I see each rock formation and wonder what natural processes formed it. I get to see each tree, each insect, each flower, and I know that life is thriving in this canyon despite the fact that it is a region born from a river tearing and destroying everything in its path.

    Then, there’s the moment when I reach the top and I can finally turn around and see the whole canyon for what it is. I’m no longer seeing a rock and a tree and a flower; I’m seeing it all. In the most literal sense, I am seeing the forest for the trees. It’s no longer the story of each individual creature in the canyon, it’s the story of the canyon itself, stretched over eons.

    At least, that’s what I see.

    Bilbo Baggins

    “If you’re referring to the incident with the Dragon, I was barely involved. All I did was give your uncle a little nudge out of the door.”

    I resonate a lot with Bilbo Baggins. I’m someone who will be perfectly content to sit at home and to stick to my own business. If you want to take me on an adventure, I’ll initially resist, but after enough pestering, I’ll gladly come along. I have a friend from college (an engineering school, I should note), who says that I have an “activation energy,” an energy that’s needed to get a chemical reaction going.

    Over the past couple of years though, I’ve started to have less and less of an activation energy. I think the Grand Canyon story above is evidence enough of that. Eventually it just diminished to the point that I was willing to go on my own RV adventure around America.

    Naturally, the first place I wanted to visit would be a canyon.

    Boiling a Frog

    Hells Canyon came highly recommended to me by a friend who used to live in Lewiston, Idaho. As I am making my way west from Montana, it seemed like a natural stop. So today, as I was grabbing a quick lunch in Coeur d’Alene, I punched “Hells Canyon” into Google Maps and got directions.

    I traveled north through flat farmland and eventually found myself on roads that wound among trees. I love roads like that. Turning around a corner and seeing a new vista makes something in my soul sing.

    I continued on this path, and eventually, the paved road gave way to gravel, a positive sign. Eventually I did just figure I was in a canyon. The problem I was having is that it was covered in trees. All I could see was trees. I love me a good tree, but I also love me a good rock, and the trees were hogging the spotlight.

    Eventually, I came to a fork. I tried to turn to Google, but I didn’t have any cell signal, so it was useless. This made me slightly uncomfortable. If I were to get lost, I’d have no guidance out. I shrugged it off and chose the left path because it went up in elevation, so I figured it would give me some good views.

    Figure 3: Indeed it did

    I started to notice something, though. The roads were narrowing. The trees began to close in on the path, coming dangerously close to my truck. I grazed some soft leaves, and I wasn’t worried. Then I grazed some twigs, and realized that they were probably scraping my car, but I figured that it probably wasn’t a big deal. “They’re just twigs,” I thought. “If they leave a mark, it’ll be small. Nothing to get too worked up about.”

    Slowly, a realization started to dawn on me. The roads had become so narrow that I couldn’t turn around even if I wanted to. There was a rock wall on one side of me, and a sheer drop on the other. If I wanted to go back, I’d have to put my truck in reverse, and probably stick that way for a few miles.

    “I’ll just keep moving forward, this is surely as bad as it gets.”

    It got worse. I kept coming across junctions where I needed to make a decision about which way to turn. By this point, I was getting ready to leave this place behind me, so I always chose roads that went west towards the highway. This didn’t help, because those roads bent and twisted and went every which way and inevitably went anywhere but west. I was officially lost.

    Will-o’-the-Wisp

    I was starting to think that I’d never leave, that I was caught in some kind of endless maze, when suddenly I had a beacon of hope: my phone had a signal! It was weak to be sure, but it was there. I stopped, pulled up Google Maps, and begged it for directions back to my RV. At long last, I knew how I was going to get out of there.

    I followed Google’s instructions, and at first, it seemed to work. I was finally making progress west. All was well, until I turned a bend, and I saw a fork in the road. Google did not say that there was a fork here. I gave it the benefit of the doubt and figured that the left side, which looked more overgrown with plant life, must be some kind of service road that Google didn’t even bother to log. So I chose the right path.

    I followed that road for about a mile, when I came across something that shook me: a dead end. Google said that this was a through path. I had to go back. Thankfully, unlike most others in this area, this road was just wide enough for me to turn around. I mean, it was a 20 point turn, but I did get it done.

    This whole misadventure was a series of bad choices, but all of them were small. This is when I made my first major bad decision. I was back at the fork where I’d chosen to go right. I figured that the road I had been on was actually the maintenance one, and that the left path was the real one. So, I turned and went down that one instead.

    This path was the narrowest yet. While the tree branches from before had lightly brushed my car, these ones bit into it. I heard the sound of metal scraping. I muscled through it, thinking, “I need to get out of here right now. The scrapes will be a problem for future Nate.” But then, after about a mile, I came across a dead end.

    I like horror, just not when it happens to me.

    At this point, I screamed. I actually screamed in anger and frustration. There was only one way out of this, and it was to put my car in reverse. I would have to back my car up through at least a mile of road that was crowded with shrubbery.

    I did it. By God, I did it. It was slow. It was agonizing. I screamed in frustration multiple times. I don’t think I’ve ever let anyone in my life see me get even half that mad. Those tree branches that had scraped my car on the way in came at me with a vengeance on my way out. “How bad will this repair bill be? Thousands of dollars?” I thought.

    Figure 4: It actually wasn’t quite as bad as I thought

    I eventually made it to the fork and was able to turn around with another 20 point turn. Left with no better alternatives, I turned to Google. I knew better than to trust it at this point, but I just needed some glimmer of hope that I could make it out of these woods.

    Shockingly, the path it gave me was actually the correct way out. It didn’t even take that long from where I was. By the time I was back on the main road, I couldn’t even be happy. My car was scraped, a piece of my mirror had fallen off, and my throat hurt from dehydration and yelling. What I was hoping would be a two hour adventure had morphed into a four hour slog.

    Plot Twist

    I entered a gas station to buy some water to rehydrate myself. When I left, I immediately called a friend to tell him what happened. “It might not feel like it now, but in a year you’ll think this will be hilarious.” That helped to hear.

    We talked for a bit, and once we wrapped up, I called my grandpa. “I had a bit of a mishap today,” I said. “I was traveling through Hells Canyon and I…”

    “Oh, so you’ve been to Hells Canyon! I love that place! Just south of Coeur d’Alene!”

    “… I have a slightly more negative opinion on it.”

    It took a second for something to click in my head. “Wait, what do you mean by south? This was north.”

    Silence. I was driving, and I had just hit a dead zone.

    I didn’t get a chance to call him up again until I was back in my RV. “Ok,” I said when we finally reconnected, “Google told me that Hells Canyon was definitely north, but you’re telling me it’s south?”

    “Yeah, I’m sure it is.”

    I did a search, and I found this lovely little tidbit on the U.S. Forest Service’s site: “Hugging the borders of northeastern Oregon and western Idaho…” The place I had been in could only be described as being near the border between Idaho and Washington.

    Google Maps had led me astray from the moment this little misadventure started. It didn’t so much as have the right location for Hells Canyon. I don’t even know what the place that consumed my afternoon and my sanity is called. It sure as hell ain’t Hells Canyon.

    Figure 5: Proof that I’m not a total dumbass

    I texted that to the friend I had called earlier.

    🫠

  • Bozeman Part I

    May 17th, 2023

    23

    I celebrated my 23rd birthday with no one. Make no mistake, I received many ‘Happy Birthday’ calls and texts from loving friends and extended family members, but I didn’t spend any of that day actually with anyone. I sat and watched YouTube videos in my parents’ old house in Colorado Springs, leaving only to go to Chipotle.

    My life has been a spectacular anomaly ever since I was in my early 20s. I think I’d had actually quite a normal life up until that point, really. I’d graduated high school, gone to college, gotten a job in a town that I didn’t grow up in. It was a fairly standard American story.

    So why was I spending my 23rd birthday alone? For one thing, like I myself had done, all of my friends from high school had moved away. Some were in Denver, others were in California, and one was even in Japan. I was back in my hometown, and all of my friends were away.

    For another, both of my parents were dead.

    That’s not an easy thing to say or explain, especially at my age. I had to tell that to a sales representative once. For unimportant reasons, she needed to know where my parents had made a purchase two years prior, and I needed to explain why I couldn’t just ask them. Her response was, “Oh wow, was it a car crash?” I don’t think that’s a bad guess. One death in the family is rare; two is even rarer. It is rarer still for them to both die in a two year period. From a probabilistic standpoint, it makes most sense if they had died in the same event.

    They both died separately of cancer, my mom when I was 21, and my dad when I was 22. I have no siblings.

    My 23rd birthday was the first one I celebrated without any immediate family. How many people can say that? How many people can say that they are a total island on their family tree? Usually by the time someone has lost their parents, they’ve married or had children. At the very least, they probably have a sibling or two. Most people never find themselves without any immediate family, let alone at the age of 22.

    Orphan-adjacent

    When my mom was dying, my dad had not yet been diagnosed with cancer. She did, however, see him gorge himself on junk food and soda. He was not taking care of his body, and she knew it. Once, in complete and utter frustration, she yelled at my father, “Do you want him to become an orphan?”

    Her saying that left me with a question that I still think about from time to time: Am I an orphan? That word brings to mind images of little Oliver Twist begging for more food, not a young adult with a comfortable lifestyle. I wanted some help to form some kind of understanding of my situation, so of course I turned to Google. This was supremely unhelpful. For a while there, if you were to google the phrase “Orphaned in my 20s,” the top two results were articles titled “Welcome to the Freak Show” and “You will behave weirdly.” I think about that a lot.

    So Google did not help me come to grips with my reality. Like, at all.

    I then turned to the dictionary. The technical definition of the word “orphan,” according to Oxford, is “a child whose parents are dead.” Looking up the word “child” gives two definitions:

    1. A young human being below the age of puberty or below the legal age of majority
    2. A son or daughter of any age

    This is again incredibly unhelpful for my situation. By these definitions, “orphan” could mean a minor whose parents are deceased, or it could mean someone of any age whose parents are deceased.

    So I’ve been left to answer this question myself, and I think that the conclusion I’ve come to, at least with regards to my own situation, is this: I am not an orphan, not really. In my view, for me to have been a true orphan, my parents would have to have died when I was a minor.

    Even so, I did still lose them almost immediately after becoming an adult. It felt like beating the tutorial level of a video game only to be faced with the final boss immediately afterwards. What I settled on is that I consider myself orphan-adjacent. I’m not an orphan, just someone who is two steps removed from being one.

    Life Alone

    Before my dad died, he and I talked a lot about what I would do after his death. The plan was to sell the house, move to Denver, resume my job, and develop my career. All of this was to happen over the course of a month.

    In hindsight, it should have been obvious that none of that could possibly have panned out.

    To say that I was in a fog after my dad died would be a severe understatement. I recently described it to my therapist as feeling as though I was on train tracks, or that I was a video game character being controlled by someone else. I didn’t really have a strong inclination on why I was doing anything.

    I want to be completely clear on what I mean by that. When someone says that they don’t know why they’re doing anything, it bears certain connotations. They often are talking about not seeing the “point” in doing anything. I saw the “point” in everything I was doing, I just truly did not understand what force was driving my feet to carry me through the motions. I felt like I had no true free will. I had no control over what I was doing. I didn’t particularly want to see any of the “points” of a given action fulfilled, and yet I performed those actions anyway.

    That feeling is not conducive to making any changes in your life. Of course, that’s when you need more than ever to make changes. The idea that I could have moved back to Denver and resumed my career in just a month was laughable. I was… nothing. I felt nothing. I couldn’t make decisions, even simple ones. I just existed, and that was it.

    I remember talking with an aunt and uncle who were driving through town and just visiting for an hour or two. I explained to them that I didn’t see any way I could resume my job, but also that I couldn’t decide if I should quit or not. They told me point blank that it was obvious that I needed to quit. In hindsight, it really was so obvious. I was in no state to be resuming my job. How could I ever have done that? Ultimately, I did quit, but it took another week of deliberation and unwillingness to commit for me to finally send that email.

    Making a Damn Decision

    The plan to move to Denver was what I had told my dad I was going to do, and it was what I felt like I needed to do. It never actually felt right at all. If anything, it felt safe. It was a minimal change: I would resume my job, I would stay in the same state, and I would carry on with my career as if nothing had happened. I would effectively be stagnating myself. Thankfully, I had a totally different idea sprouting in the back of my head: maybe I could move to Bozeman.

    I have a group of cousins who had moved to Bozeman a few years before either of my parents died. I love all of them dearly. Every year, we would go visit them for Thanksgiving when they were still living in Texas. That was always my favorite time of the year very specifically because of them. When I was a kid, I would have given anything to have lived in the same town as them, and as a young adult, it was finally possible.

    That plan was what I wanted to do. I just wasn’t sure if it was the plan that I should do. Moving to a whole new state without so much as a job lined up is a massive commitment and a gamble. Of course, because I was incapable of making any decisions, the idea just sat in my head untouched.

    Thankfully, there soon came an event that would help get that idea off the ground and give it some momentum: the 2017 eclipse. I have a friend from college whose parents live in Jackson, Wyoming, which happened to lie directly in the eclipse’s path. He invited me and many of our other friends from college to go visit his parents for a few days to see the eclipse. Had he not done that, I would never have gone. It was a wonderful time, and seeing that eclipse is forever seared into my mind.

    Since Bozeman is just a few hours away from Jackson, I made the decision (for once) to go see my cousins up there and continue toying with that little idea in the back of my mind. Once the eclipse was over and done, I hit the road and waded through a sea of traffic leaving Jackson to find myself in Bozeman.

    The moment I entered the town, I thought, “Oh, I could never move here. It’s too different from home.”

    Thankfully, I quickly warmed up to Bozeman during that trip, and by the time I left, I felt invigorated. Of course, it took another visit to Bozeman for me to actually decide to move there. And another. And another. But over the course of that series of trips, I came to realize that I was going to move there.

    But wanting to move somewhere and actually committing to a move are two separate things. For months, I sat around in my parents’ house doing nothing. That changed on St. Patrick’s Day, 2018. I was napping when I woke up with a start from a nightmare about my parents. I had been having nightmares like that just about every time I fell asleep. I don’t remember what happened in this particular one, but I know it was especially intense. Crucially, it was enough for me to think, “If I don’t get out of this house, I am going to continue having these nightmares.” Without putting any more thought into it, I picked up my phone and texted a realtor I had connected with a few months prior.

    Leaving Colorado

    Over the course of the next few weeks, my realtor guided me through the process of selling my house. During that time, I felt more alive than I had over the entire year since my dad had died. I finally felt as though my life was moving forward. Still, I was struggling to know and do what needed to be done, so I pretty much just relied on my realtor to hold my hand throughout the whole process. I didn’t even do most of the packing; we hired a company to do that for us.

    To be honest, I don’t remember much about that period. While my mind was clearer, there was still a heavy fog lying on it. I think everything was going too fast for me to be able to even process it. I was in the middle of the biggest move of my life, and I still spent my days playing video games and watching YouTube while all of my possessions were being taken out of my house.

    Eventually, of course, the day came when it was time for me to leave. Those wonderful people had packed up all my stuff for me. Most of it was loaded into a moving van, while the essentials went with me in my truck. On a Friday morning in early April, 2018, I finally moved on with my life and left Colorado Springs.

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